Spot fakes
Spot fake Magic cards with confidence
Counterfeits are everywhere. Learn the physical tells, compare against genuine references, and train your eye — a free, community-minded side of bluecore.cards.
Ways to learn
Detection methods
Light test, rosette print, the green dot, the back-of-card “T” and more.
Most-faked cards
The cards counterfeiters target most — and how to check them.
Reference lookup
Pull a genuine Scryfall scan to compare against.
Spot-the-fake quiz
Test your eye on genuine-vs-fake examples.
Daily card game
Guess the hidden Magic card — a new puzzle every day.
Scam watch
Marketplace scam patterns and buyer guides.
Recommended tools
Loupes and lights that make the tests easy.
Detection methods
All methods →Each test explains what it checks, what genuine and fake cards look like, and exactly how to do it.
Light test
Compare light transmission with a known-genuine non-foil of the same printing. A mismatch is a reason to investigate, not a verdict.
Print/rosette test
Compare colored halftone dots and solid black details under magnification. Rosettes alone do not prove a card is genuine.
Green dot test
Inspect the red L-shaped dot pattern in a standard Magic card back, together with the surrounding print. It is a clue, not an authenticity certificate.
The 'T' test
Compare the fine edges of the 'T' in 'The Gathering' on a standard card back. This supports a broader print inspection, not a stand-alone verdict.
Bend test
Bending can crease a genuine card and does not establish authenticity. Keep the card intact and use non-destructive comparisons instead.
Weight test
Compare unsleeved cards of the same printing and finish on a calibrated scale. Weight is supporting evidence, not a universal pass/fail threshold.
Back comparison
Compare standard Magic backs with a known-genuine reference. Genuine color variation exists, and double-faced cards do not have the standard back.
Font test
Typography is precise on genuine cards. Wrong weight, spacing, or fuzzy mana symbols are common fake tells.
Rip test
Tearing permanently damages the card and core color alone cannot authenticate it. Do not use the rip test, even as a last resort.
Educational guidance only — no method is a guarantee of authenticity. For valuable cards, consult a professional grading or authentication service.